patching...
Welcome back, Patch Blogger!

Holey War

Food critic Andrew Lipstein reviews the offerings at five local bagel shops.

 

When bagels were invented in 16th century Krakow, they were not the doughy donut they are today. They weren't a production either. Cream cheese, lox, capers and beefsteak tomatoes were absent. The roll wasn't even sliced.

It originally competed with the much more popular obwarzanek: a twisted, hole-y bread very similar to the bagel. But today, half a millennium later, the bagel competes not with its weirdo Polish cousin, but with itself. Ladies and gentlemen, the Bagel Showdown.

At each spot, I tested one plain bagel with plain cream cheese and one out-of-the-ordinary bagel. This meant something like a blueberry bagel and pumpkin cream cheese (or a pumpkin bagel with walnut raisin cream cheese). The bagels were rated on "bagelness" (doughy vs. bready), taste, substantiality and freshness (the bagels were tried around the same time in the morning to be judicious). A "doughy" bagel is one that pulls rather than crumbles when it's ripped – like a warm, eggy loaf, rather than a slice of cold whole wheat bread.

This battle royale features five warriors. To hit all of these spots, all you need to do drive along South Avenue, from downtown Fanwood to the end of Westfield. There's the two local titans: the 30-year-old, award-winning Bagel Chateau of Westfield and the beloved Fanwood Bagels & Deli. There's the two chains: Dunkin' Donuts in Fanwood and Manhattan Bagels in Westfield. And, there's the underdog, Westfield Bagels & Café – new to the scene and positioned in a locale with less than stellar luck.

Individual Reviews

Fanwood Bagels & Deli

Scotch Plains and Fanwood residents swear by Fanwood Bagels (Martine Avenue, right off South Avenue), and for good reason. You always get the same doughy goodness with a more than generous slab of cream cheese. The plain bagel with cream cheese had a remarkable crust, achieved a perfect texture and was fresh. The taste was clean and, well, like a bagel should taste.

I also ordered the pumpkin bagel with walnut raisin cream cheese. It had great bagelness (bagebility? bagelitude? bagelition?), although it tasted somewhat plain. It was extremely substantial and the cream cheese had more spice (nutmeg, cinnamon and perhaps allspice) than expected, in a good way.

Total price: $4.65

Bagel Chateau

Bagel Chateau lies on the other end of South Avenue and on the other end of the menu spectrum. Serving a whole range of deli offerings, it was hard to just order the two bagels. The bagel was solid and substantial but a bit tough, which detracted from the feeling of freshness. The texture and the taste, however, were both very doughy. Unfortunately, the cream cheese was a bit like butter, both in texture and taste. It's possible you enjoy such a taste, but this reviewer does not.

I ordered a blueberry bagel with pumpkin cream cheese. I know the combination sounds out there, but it blended well (most likely because the cream cheese didn't have a strong flavor). The blueberry bagel tasted more like its advertised flavor than most, and the cream cheese could have been labeled as walnut maple and I wouldn't have noticed the difference. The flavored bagel also came with a side of chips and a slice of pickle.

Total price: $5.01

Dunkin' Donuts

Over the past few years, D&D has worked to expand its menu to include items such as flatbreads, Italian sandwiches and Caesar salads. From the quality of bagels, however, it seems they should have spent more time on the classics. The plain bagel was bready, not very fresh and tasted artificial. They skimped on the cream cheese, which separated from the bagel.

When I visited, they didn't offer any interesting bagels; I settled on the multigrain with strawberry cream cheese. The bagel was more crumbly than any involved in the competition, unfortunately bland and stale tasting. The strawberry cream cheese was a bit much in terms of sweetness.

Total price: $4.26

Manhattan Bagel

It's no wonder a bagel chain named themselves after the (debatably) Mecca of bagels: Manhattan. But Manhattan Bagel is in Westfield and the bagels don't taste like they're from the Big Apple. The plain bagel had a great crust but was not doughy at all. It wasn't very fresh, the taste was bland and it had a mediocre level of substantiality. Lastly, the cream cheese had an unpleasant buttery flavor.

I couldn't help but order the French toast bagel, which tasted exactly like its namesake. I also got the honey almond cream cheese, which unfortunately took the place of the store's walnut raisin cream cheese years ago. It was very sweet, not viscous enough and didn't taste of almond.

Total price: $5.11

Westfield Bagels & Café

Westfield Bagel lies right before traffic circle on South Avenue, a spot that's been hard for business because of its location and minimal parking. The plain bagel was more bready than I usually like, but it had a nice flavor. Also, although it's less traditional, a  breadier bagel makes for a better sandwich. Like at bagel chateau, the cream cheese tasted too strongly of butter. It also separated from the bagel too easily. Overall, Westfield Bagel had the product with the most substantiality.

I ordered the cinnamon raisin bagel with its corresponding walnut raisin cream cheese. The bagel was full of raisins, but nothing compared to the chockfull spread. The cream cheese was strong, thick and powerful. It tasted a little stale at different parts, but really overtook the bagel with a unique flavor.

Total price: $4.25

Conclusion

The easiest conclusion to reach is that the local joints won out over the chains in almost every category. Besides the authentic French toast bagel at Manhattan Bagels, the chains' bagels tasted (predictably) manufactured and bready. Westfield Bagel had some startlingly tasty offerings; the walnut raisin cream cheese was a kick in the mouth. However, the regular cream cheese and breadiness of the plain bagel held it back. That leaves Bagel Chateau and Fanwood Bagels. While Bagel Chateau's bagel came with chips and a pickle, the cream cheeses were too buttery or bland to fully complement the bagel. Fanwood Bagel achieved the perfect bagel without going overboard. When you need to hit the bagel spot, the best place to go is undoubtedly Fanwood Bagel.

The Bagel Showdown winner is: Fanwood Bagels & Deli.

Let the debate begin.

About this column: Each week, food critic Andrew Lipstein reviews a restaurant in the Scotch Plains, Fanwood and Westfield area.

FanwoodMom

10:17 am on Tuesday, October 26, 2010

We have been enjoying Fanwood Bagel bagels for the past 11 years - love their sandwiches, too. I will definitely give the other places a try, too.

Reply

Len

10:46 am on Tuesday, October 26, 2010

Andrew - Decent review. You took a stand and made your review relevant and of value to the reader...although I noticed you still couldn't help yourself (blueberry bagel with pumpkin cream cheese)...but that's okay. I am partial to the Bagel Chateau, but must admit I've never done a side-by-side comparison. That being said, one can't help but notice after the "Flannery bashing" that you chose a Fanwood establishment...but I'm sure that's just a coincidence. There was some choppy writing, but other than that...I found your article interesting. Like the reader above, I too will give the other places a try.

Reply

Steve Goldberg

12:11 pm on Tuesday, October 26, 2010

Hey Andrew, good job on the review. As a native New Yorker I've had countless bagels over the years and I agree with your assessment of Fanwood Bagels. I have tried bagels at all the other places except Westfield Bagels and agree that Fanwood Bagels has the most bagelocity(I prefer that to bagelness). Their bagels have the type of taste and texture that I remember from my days in Brooklyn and Queens. Lori and her crew do a great job in satisfying their many loyal customers. They also make great breakfast and lunch sandwiches.

Reply

Green Thumb

1:06 pm on Tuesday, October 26, 2010

I know this is about how the bagels taste but there is one thing you didn't mention - Fanwood Bagels only takes cash. This is a major turnoff for me - even though Fanwood Bagels is closer to where I live, I drive to Bagel Chateau.

Reply
Comment_arrow

FanwoodWatch

4:56 pm on Tuesday, October 26, 2010

I agree with Green Thumb - I like to use Debit for safety (no carrying cash) and record keeping purposes. When a business will only take cash in this electronic payments world it is a real turn off for me and a real Red Flag.

Comment_arrow

T

8:00 pm on Tuesday, October 26, 2010

FanwoodWatch, why is this a red flag? I am at a loss for what that statement means. Debit cards leave you more at risk for fraud than any other method of payment. With cash you never have to worry about someone stealing your identity or having access to your bank accounts. Is it an inconvenience at times? Yeah, but there is an ATM across the street at the PNC Bank.

FanwoodWatch

1:08 pm on Tuesday, October 26, 2010

I have frequented Fanwood Bagels and Manhattan Bagels. I prefer Manhattan Bagels and I much prefer the staff at Manhattan Bagels. The Manhattan Bagels have that crispness that you just cant get at Fanwood Bagels. Fanwood Bagels are no better than a Diner type bagel. Manhattan Bagels is also very clean and they maintain very high levels of hygeine. Fanwood bagels is dimly lit and is not very clean - especially the bathroom. Manhattan Bagels staff are cheery and nice. Fanwood Bagels staff always seem to be in a bad mood.

My favorite is an Everything Bagel not toasted but just out of the oven - swiss cheese - mustard.

Reply

FanwoodWatch

12:58 am on Wednesday, October 27, 2010

I understand our Editor has represented he is looking into the Trigo - Heugel - Mahr Situation in Fanwood. The readers have not been informed of this situation. Many of us have children and it is incumbent for the elected officials to inform the public regarding State v. Trigo

Reply

FanwoodWatch

1:02 am on Wednesday, October 27, 2010

My Dear Thomas:
My Debit Card provides Instant Record of all transactions. It is also a Mastercard that provides protection from unauthorized debits and charges. It does not leave me at risk for anything. As an example why my car was being serviced and my plan provided for a free rental the company providing the free rental attempted to submit a Credit Authorization to my account of $250.00 although my credit authorization limit is $300,000.00 - yes Three Hundred Thousand Dollars is was not Declined - it was Rejected as my Debit/Credit Card issued under my FMA Account does not permit Pre-Authorizations of anything and I received a call on my mobile, a text, my home phone and email within seconds warning me of this vendors attempt. As far as establishments that do not accept electronic payments via debit/credit they are often business who do not properly and legally declare their true stated income and are often a Red Flag subject to Audit and Examination by the Taxing Authorities. Taxes are the obligation of all of us and a responsibility under our laws.

Reply

T

5:58 am on Wednesday, October 27, 2010

That's fine FanwoodWatch. You're entitled to your opinion.

Reply

C

7:13 am on Thursday, October 28, 2010

My Dear Fanwoodwatch:
A. No one cares about your 300K limit. (that is 5k away from being maxed- yes MAXED)
B. You sound like a real nut!!

Reply

FanwoodWatch

7:43 am on Thursday, October 28, 2010

Miss C:

A. The Credit Limit was for illustrative purposes - sorry sweetie it has never been maxed it only reverts to Credit from Debit if I exceed the cash balance and considering a simple transfer into the account from the web-Iphone or even telephone is instantaneous I have never even drawn on the Credit portion. A combination Debit with Credit line is the way to go.

B. You sound like a bookkeeper. As a bookkeeper I am sure you can interpolate the numbers and arrive at the conclusion.

Reply

Bill

9:00 am on Thursday, October 28, 2010

I feel sorry for that little girl in the picture....FanwoodWatch...you're a koo koo bird. Let's get back to Bagel talk people...just ignore Miss FanWood.

Anyone every try Clark Bagels...they've been around for awhile...going by the writers criterea...I'd say there bagels would rate right up there.

Reply

Green Thumb

10:02 am on Thursday, October 28, 2010

Name calling, bringing in the children...? really? C and Bill, please get a grip and show some respect for others. Just because you're identity is hidden doesn't give you permission to forget your manners.

Reply

Bill

10:55 am on Thursday, October 28, 2010

Yeah..you're right GT...my apologies. Let's get back to bagels please!!!

H&H in NYC...I believe that to be the gold standard. And has anyone ever noticed that Bagels in other parts of the country don't taste nearly the same...this may be a myth, but I've heard it's because of the water...but that doesn't sound right.

Reply

Great Googamooga

11:13 am on Thursday, October 28, 2010

I've also heard it's the hard water that makes a difference...Essa Bagels in NYC has always been a favorite of mine, though I don't get there anymore. You can get a good bagel and get yelled at all at the same time.

Reply

C

11:14 am on Thursday, October 28, 2010

Bill your right it is due to water same thing with pizza in NYC there are a few pizza place around the country that import NYC water for the pizza..

Reply

Andrew Lipstein

12:06 pm on Thursday, October 28, 2010

The water, really? I'm skeptical, but it's something to think about.

Also, ever since someone mentioned Bagels Supreme in Springfield I've really wanted to give it a go.

Reply

NanaGrammy

3:46 pm on Thursday, October 28, 2010

Astoria Queens is famous for their Bagel Shops. Essa Bagel in Manhattan is a pretty good Bagel and Great GoogaMooga is right about getting yelled at - the Essa Bagel guys are like the Soup Nazi - somtimes terrifying !

I have tried Bagel Supreme in Springfield - a good Bagel - a tough place to park.

Reply

Leave a comment