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Business & Tech

Portusa BBQ House Brings a Taste of Portugal to Park Avenue

The new family-owned BBQ restaurant opened in Scotch Plains a few weeks ago.

Ravenously hungry and looking for a meal slightly off the beaten path, I recently visited the newly opened Portusa BBQ House on Park Avenue. Owned and operated by brothers Frank and Victor Neno (and sometimes Victor’s wife, Sarah), Portusa specializes in charcoal barbecue. I wasn’t entirely sure what differentiated Portuguese barbecue from the American sweet, saucy grill fare—but it was quite a tasty lesson learned.

The meal started with a bread basket and a small dish of delicious, garlicky olives. I ordered the Portuguese Sausage chorizo appetizer, which was served flambé style and cooked on a special glazed earthenware rack and sliced at the table. The sausage lived up to its impressive presentation. Unlike Spanish chorizo, which features ground meat, Portuguese chorizo is filled with pieces of pork enabling the flavor to shine through. Portusa’s flame-cooked method rendered a smoked sausage with a crispy casing, moist interior, and spicy paprika kick. It was a very good starter.

Portusa’s menu features salads, sandwiches, and seafood dishes, but the winners are definitely the barbecue items—which are sauceless for good reason. The pork spare ribs (Entrecosto Assado) were phenomenal. Succulent, tender, and perfectly seasoned, these ribs give new meaning to finger lickin’ good. Combination platters of chicken, ribs, short ribs, and port cutlets are available for $14 to $15, so you don’t have to choose just one.

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The dishes at Portusa are enormous. The combo platter I ordered included half of a chicken (a bit dry but with decent flavor) and those delicious ribs atop a mound of yellow rice, plus an entire plate of French fries or a garden salad. I had entered the restaurant starving, but even two of us couldn’t put a dent in one serving. Half orders at $7.50 to $8.50 are an option for lunch or smaller appetites.

The Seafood Paella at $21 is a bit bland, which is surprising considering the dish is chock full of seafood: lobster, scallops, shrimps, and clams. It can easily feed three people. The Shrimp with Garlic Sauce (Camarao a Guilho, $13.00) is exactly that. If you’re a garlic lover, this is the entrée or appetizer for you. The garlic-infused olive oil also doubles as an interesting dip for bread.

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Desserts were stand-outs, and all are homemade. Victor’s wife, Sarah, bakes a moist, well-balanced carrot cake. The flan, a recipe of the owners’ mother, is deliciously creamy and coated with the traditional cooked-sugar caramel.

The décor is understated, with high ceiling fans, and soft background music. The Nenos have renovated the space, which used to be 503 Park Restaurant. The restaurant is roomy and comfortable, and outdoor sidewalk seating is available on Park Avenue.

Service is excellent, and the owners are friendly, helpful, and eager to explain Portuguese cuisine. They are also happy to cater to families and children. Portusa has high chairs and a Kids’ Corner menu with mostly American fare.

If you’re looking for alternative barbecue at a reasonable price, Portusa will not disappoint—and you’ll probably walk out with leftovers to boot.

Portusa BBQ House

503 Park Ave., Scotch Plains

908-288-7034

Open 7 days, 11:30am - 10pm

AMEX, Visa, Mastercard, Discover

BYO

Take out, delivery, and catering available.

 

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