Exotic Tastes and Plates at Siam House

Nestled among the strip malls, jug handles, and fast food chains on Route 22 is Siam House, Scotch Plains' one and only Thai restaurant. This quiet, little culinary gem whips up authentic Thai favorites as well as a slew of more exotic fare—and serves it up with a personal touch at reasonable prices.

Starters include a curry puff, peanut-sauced satay skewers, Kanom Jeeb dumplings (all $8.95), and a deliciously crisp, addicting snack-of-a-dish containing seven miniature, fried Thai spring rolls ($4.95) that are filled with bean thread noodles, carrots, and other vegetables. There are also a few soups ($4.95-$5.95 for small, $10.95-$11.95 for large) and salads ($4.95-$11.95).

The entrées at Siam House are categorized by seafood ($17.95-market price), house specialties (13.95), curries ($12.95 and $15.95), noodles and fried rice ($9.95-$12.95), duck ($17.95), and the oxymoronic "basic exotic" ($10.95 and $14.95). You have to give props to a restaurant that devotes an entire section of the menu to duck (seven different dishes) and serves four variations of a crispy whole fish (Pla Lard Prig, Pla Kaprow, Pla Kang Dang, and Pla Khing Sod) which is plated in a gorgeous, curved display—head, tail, and all. (That must be one heck of a deep-fryer they've got back in the kitchen.)

For those who don't want to literally come face-to-face with the animal they are about to ingest, Siam House offers several chicken, pork, beef, and vegetables in a wide range of stir frys, "basic exotic" sauce flavors (basil, garlic, ginger, and sweet and sour), and tri-colored curries (red, green, and yellow). One such dish is the chicken Pra Ram ($13.95), in which a giant pile of petite chicken pieces are coated, deep fried, topped with a peanut sauce, and surrounded by what must be an entire head of steamed broccoli.

Pad Thai ($11.95), which is probably one of the most popular Thai dishes of all, is a staple at Siam House—and for good reason. Their tasty rendition is piled high and features all the usual ingredients: rice noodles, shrimps, egg, chopped peanuts, tofu, bean sprouts, and scallions. Also enjoyable is the pork Penang curry ($12.95) which includes thin slices of pork sautéed in a spicy, coconut milk-based curry, red bell peppers, and kaffir lime leaves. The thin, flavorful, red curry is especially tasty over the accompanying plate of jasmine rice which the chef molds into a cone shape.

Depending on one's affinity for chilis and spices, diners can turn the heat index up or down on every single item on the menu. Lunchtime (Tuesday through Friday, 11:30 am-3 pm) offers an abbreviated dinner menu at significant price reductions, and the restaurant offers a few unique Thai sweets, such as mango with sticky rice ($5.50) and lychee smoothies ($3.75).

Siam House does a fairly good job of making the most of its space, which faces Route 22. Curtains shade headlights in the parking lot and an odd mix of instrumental music masks traffic noise. There are also loads of wooden boats, figurines, fake flowers, and Thai knick-knacks on virtually every surface in the place (including the room's center divider) which seems a bit cluttered during the day, but along with dim lighting, effectively creates a quasi-cozy atmosphere in the evening.

Siam House is a nice change of pace from the regular dining scene in town, and it certainly puts out dependable, traditional Thai cuisine and the opportunity to also drift into more exotic waters. But what I most enjoy about it is the care and attention everyone—from the servers to the chefs in the kitchen—takes with each meal. The friendly staff has a knack for knowing when to engage in conversation and when to disappear. The servers are attentive to the needs of families with small children and readily provide plastic topped cups without needing to be asked. Plus, it's clear the chefs take pride in both the taste and aesthetics of their product, whether it's utilizing different shaped plates, incorporating garnishes, or simply making rice look interesting. And at prices and portions like these, it's hard to beat it.

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Siam House

2520 Olympia Plaza, Route 22E, Scotch Plains

(908) 789-8988

Hours of Operation:

Tuesday through Thursday, 11:30 am-9:30 pm

Friday and Saturday, 11:30 am-10 pm

Sunday, 2-9:30 pm

BYO. Take-out available.

Visa and Mastercard accepted.